Saipan: Pacific Paradise, American Prices

 Click on images to enlarge 
(c) 2007 S G Parks

Learning to wind surf in Saipan.


(c) 2007 S G Parks

Managaha beach with the north point of Saipan in the background


(c) 2007 S G Parks

The fish are very inquisitive.


(c) 2007 S G Parks

Hotels are mainly on the west side, with beaches protected by the shallow reef.


(c) 2007 S G Parks

This minisub goes around wrecks from World War II.


13180003

The propellers from some old warplane.


13240001

This old Japanese tank is unbelievably small.


13180013

The prison where, rumour has it, Amelia Earhart died.

Located on the west side of the Pacific and just north of the equator, Saipan begs comparison to Hawaii. Of course both had major roles in WWII, and both use that to attract tourists. While Hawaii went on to be an American state and grew in the American psyche as an idealized place, Saipan has slid quietly under the radar.

Too far away and undeveloped to be of interest to North American tourists, Saipan gets most of it's visitors from Asia and Russia. Coming from South Korea, Saipan was just over 4 hours by air. Technically, Saipan is an American territory and has been since the Second World War. So this tropical paradise mainly speaks English, although it obviously isn't the first language for most natives.

Saipan is an ideal place to learn windsurfing or to relax in water teeming with wildlife. This is the only place that I've actually seen (and could have touched) starfish. Sea turtles are very common. I saw a few on different days near different beaches. Saipan's west coast is blessed with a long reef that protects some very beautiful beaches. The shallow waters can simply be walked into and then you can swim (carefully) over the reefs. Wind surfing classes are very popular around Garapan, the largest city in Saipan.

Saipan caters to most budgets, but backpackers would be hard pressed to find a hostel. All prices are in American dollars, so you have to budget carefully. Saipan is cash-strapped so there are many hustlers trying to get your money, legally or otherwise.

The restaurants tend toward big name American chains, with typical roadhouse fare, but if you look around, there are a lot of local fish shops. The Grotto, where everything is cooked with enough garlic to kill you, is worth a visit. Just don't try to be social afterwards.

Popular attractions include scuba diving in a grotto (a series of caves that let you get out into the ocean); riding a minisub down to visit sunken ships and airplanes from World War II; cycling the north point of the island or taking bus tours of the (locally) famous locations.

Saipan's reef also shelters Managaha Island, a beautiful sand knoll that has some of the best beaches I've ever walked on. The tourists get thick there, especially on the south and west sides, but the northern shore (which is rocky), can be empty, and the sandy east shore was completely deserted.

Every tourist map of Saipan includes lists of where you can see wrecked Japanese weapons from the war. In some places, these have been gathered together for easier viewing. There are many places, even today, where it isn't safe to go. Many underground bunkers still exist and their entranceways are clearly marked with yellow tape to try to warn away the foolish.

One of the more intriguing stories from Saipan's past is that according to local witnesses, Amelia Earhart was brought by the Japanese to the Garapan prison. According to these accounts, she lived out her last days there and either died before the Americans landed or was taken away by the Japanese.

Saipan is a good three-day trip. I was there four days and was a little bored by the end. If I just wanted to sit on a beach and sleep, I could have, but I could have done that nearer to home for less money too. If you have the budget, you can take short flights to the nearby islands of Tinian and Rota.

On the east side of the island in areas that are not easily accessible to tourists, Saipan is becoming notorious for its sweatshops. As Saipan is part of the Commonwealth of the North Marianas Islands (CNMI), it is a de facto part of the United States. Clothing made here can be legally labeled as "Made in America." However, this far from legal oversight, the clothing factories in Saipan don't pay anywhere near what would be considered a fair wage in America. A scandal in the U.S. boiled over in 2005, as elected officials attempting to preserve Saipan's status while not allowing US-style worker rights.

 Recommendations 

Although it's expensive, taking the minisub was a highlight of my trip. You get really close to sunken ships and airplane parts (guns and propellors) and you can see how one ship has become a reef with many curious fish swimming around.

I won't recommend my hotel (I don't even remember the name). It was OK, but there has to be better for the price. It was dirty and they had weird rules about when you could use the pool which felt like you could use it when the staff doesn't want to. I had a late flight out, but they wouldn't hold my luggage for me. I think they advertised it as ocean view, and if you had a top floor room, maybe you could have seen the ocean over the opposite hotel and baseball diamond.

Go to Managaha Island. I can't find a website specifically for it, but it is worth going just to see what a tropical beach is really like (and the surf shop had cool t-shirts). Here's the CNMI picture of Managaha.

 Further Reading 

Saipan Tourism site
CNN on working conditions in Saipan

— SGP

Vicarious Vistas - by Stephen G Parks

Travel
articles (most recent first)

The Orphan Elephants of Kenya

NgoroNgoro Crater, Tanzania

Northern Tanzania in photos

Kruger National Park: the Big Everything!

Cape Town, South Africa: Any port in a storm

Kasane, Botswana: A hidden jewel

How to define where I’ve been?

Chobe River, a photo essay

Beijing: Come for the History, Meet the People

Sydney: A nice place to visit...

The Great Wall: Yes it is (Great)

Whitsunday Islands: Sailing bliss on a tall ship

I Hate London

Kangaroo Island: A Must See in Australia

Hong Kong: Best of Both Worlds

Saipan: Pacific Paradise, American Prices

Flying's easy it's the landing that'll kill ya

Index


sections

Travel
Opinion
Notes From Korea
Notes From Namibia
What a Week!
About  Privacy  Contact


All content, written, photographic and otherwise is (c) 2007-2008 by Stephen Gregory Parks. All rights reserved. You may not use, duplicate, modify, embed or borrow any content, incorporate it into any site, design or material of any kind, nor use it in any way or form, without express written permission of the copyright holder.