Kasane, Botswana: A hidden jewel
While tourism to Africa continues to grow, a much overlooked destination is Botswana. Located just north of South Africa, this landlocked nation has a lot to offer both adventure and leisure tourists.
For me, getting there was half the fun. To get to Botswana from neighbouring Namibia, I had to drive through a slim appendage of Namibia known as the Caprivi strip. My guide book helpfully tells you that you no longer need to travel with a military convoy through this region. During the Angolan civil war, this territory was often invaded by rebels, and travelers were vulnerable. But in the last six years or so this threat has ended.
Now, you just have to drive slowly. The speed limit is strictly enforced by elephants. You can break the law, but they might break your car (or worse).
Starting from Rundu, the map was very specific - there are only two places to get gas - Divundu and Kongola. Divundu is very close to Rundu, and when I passed through, I had more that 3/4 of a tank. I got into Kongola with the car on empty and the low fuel light flashing.
The one and only gas station in Kongola had no gas. Seriously. They were
expecting a delivery some time that week(!)
I managed to barter 10 litres of gas from a woman who refused to simply
take money for it. It cost me my 10 litre reserve jerry can, but I got
across
the final segment, to the town of Katima Mulilo.
I had intended to stay there for the night and push on to Botswana the next morning. But, my hotel was in the middle of major renovations. it was noisy, dusty, the kitchen wasn't going to be open... they suggested that I go 5 km down the road to another place.
I may or may not have found the place, as the signs were ambiguous. However, a guard dog found me and wouldn't let me out of the car. At this point I was only 35 km from the Botswanan border, and there were still 2 hours of sunlight. Kasane is only 90 km across the border - no problem!
The border was no problem - very laid back. They don't even look in your car, you go into a building and fill out paperwork. I could have had five rhinos in the back, they wouldn't have known.
All of Botswana is laidback, compared to Namibia. There is more wealth and less stress in the daily lives of the locals. This leads to a much friendlier experience for tourists. Botswana is a stable country that has had a few democratic changes of government in the past. They have large diamond mines and generally, the government isn't hoarding the wealth away from the citizens. It's still Africa, and not as developed as many places, but by the local standards, it's very well off. Even their tourist trade is well established and runs along standards that would be comparable to Australia.
But getting to Kasane is not easy. Yes, it's only 90 km of highway driving, but it's 90 km through a national park. In my case - at dusk, when the animals are most active. First was the herd of water buffalo. Then was the mom and baby elephants. I saw the water buffalo in time to stop the car, but almost missed the grey baby elephant. I saw it in time and managed to stop - the mom was giving me what I assume is the elephant evil eye.
Once in Kasane, you have a real choice in accommodation, sometimes at the same location. The Chobe Safari Lodge has both very upscale rooms and onsite camping. Given how beautiful the restaurant is, I'd suggest staying there however you can afford it.
Kasane is totally about tourism. Sitting on the Chobe River, the town not only handles expeditions to the Chobe National Park, but also to the Okavango Delta and even to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe.
AND -- the town is absolutely infected with wildlife. This is a town of some size, not some little village, but that doesn't stop the elephants from wandering through, the warthogs from walking along the main street, the hippos from grazing on the shoreline and the crocodiles from scaring tourists.
The restaurant of Chobe River Lodge is open to the elements, and the animals. The day before I had arrived, the breakfast buffet had been raided by a family of baboons. No word on what the paying guest thought, but when i ate there, there were security guards armed with long flexible sticks to beat back any animal that tried to get to the desert buffet.
No matter what else you do, take a river boat cruise at sunset. I've written about it elsewhere, but it is truly amazing.
